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Trekking, 'Essex Wing - Iceland', Iceland - Southern Highlands, Jul 2016, ID 2082

Essex Wing ATC

The Air Training Corps’ motto ‘Venture, Adventure’ proved prophetic for the challenges that Iceland threw at the 12 cadets and 8 staff from across Essex who took part in an expedition to mark the Air Training Corps’ 75th Anniversary. Iceland is located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, and sits above a mantle plume which makes it volcanic and provides significant geothermal energy. The opposing forces of fire and ice produce deep fjords, black volcanic deserts, snow-capped mountains and waterfalls, providing joy and challenge in equal measure.

The expedition formed part of the Cadet’s Gold Duke of Edinburgh award, necessitating a self-sufficient 4 day expedition through wild country with 8 hours of activity per day; their aim was to study the geo-thermal activity within Iceland’s highland interior.

Following a late night arrival, 12 slightly shocked Cadets emerged into the busy communal cooking and washing area of the Reykavik campsite. This cultural melting pot provided ample opportunity to meet people from a wide range of backgrounds and nationalities. However, the tasks of shopping for supplies and packing were the day’s priorities.

The journey to Landmannalaugur and Iceland’s interior incorporated visits to the Strokkur geyser and the highly impressive glacial outflow waterfall of Gullfoss. Iceland’s roads are either paved or gravel. Gravel ‘F’ roads can only be crossed by 4x4 and interestingly, the minibus and trailer which arrived to collect us wasn’t! It just about coped with the road, however, the river crossings into the campsite proved too deep and we had to carry our equipment on foot.

The Cadets were presented with another crowded campsite. Tents were pitched and meals prepared, with the opportunity for a late night dip in the geothermal pool.

Except water, everything had to be carried, food, fuel, clothing, camping equipment and tents. The resulting rucksacks weighted 18-20kg and made travelling across the terrain hard going, although an acclimatisation day helped to prepare us for the expedition.

Day 1 climbs took us to the highest part of the route at Hrafntinnusker. We travelled through valleys with boiling mud, steam vents and ice caves. A cold night was spent camping on bare rock, which was comprised of a hard, sharp glass like material, obsidian, which easily cut through ground sheets, clothing and tents!

Day 2 consisted of gentle undulations followed by a descent to the Alftavatn hut. We had the most incredible views of a land that could have been taken straight from Lord of the Rings. At the hut both cadet groups undertook a number of hours of voluntary work: marking out a car park, digging a pipe trench for shower drainage and constructing a river crossing bridge. The wardens were extremely grateful as the Cadets completed a month’s work in an afternoon.

Day 3 featured a less well travelled route including minor river crossings and a black volcanic desert. The unusual camp site sat above natural hot pools whose water temperature was controlled by using a rake to move stones.

Local wardens and guides advised us that there were 2 routes back to Landmannalaugur; both of which had caused a Canadian and a French team to turn around. A deteriorating weather forecast added to the mix as did 2 Americans who joined us for this return leg. The afternoon proved more challenging as the Torfajokell glacier had washed away the path and most of the mountain side! Route finding ws difficult as the descents were steep and snow covered. Once on the valley floor we were faced with a deep and fast flowing glacial outflow, which necessitated 23 icy cold crossings! At sunset after 17 hours of trekking, we were all dry, fed, hydrated and in bed sound asleep.

Day 5 was a short walk back to Landmannalaugur for showers, fresh clothes, breakfast and a few treats from the shop, before the return coach journey via a service station and the devouring of hotdogs, missed calories and wi-fi!

Rest day opportunities were either a walk through a lava tube or experience lava fields via Icelandic horseback, followed by a dip in the geo-thermal swimming pool and hot tubs.

This most incredible expedition, took place through a land shaped by volcanoes and glaciers. Each twist and turn, each climb and descent presented other worldly views, lavas, mosses, flowers, clouds, glaciers, rivers and waterfalls. Everyone agreed that there are probably few Gold Duke of Edinburgh participants who can claim to have crossed volcanoes, lava flows, snow, geo-thermal areas and glacial outflow rivers. It was a privilege watching the Cadets overcome the varied challenges and pull together as a team. Without doubt and in the best traditions of the Air Training Corps, this Adventure required all to Venture into unknown territory to succeed.

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Essex Wing - Iceland/Group photo in  Reykavik -  Hallgrimskirkja Church Essex Wing - Iceland/Voluntary work - trench digging -  Alftavatn Hut Essex Wing - Iceland/Steep ascent to  Hrafntinnusker Essex Wing - Iceland/Steep descent to Prengsli Essex Wing - Iceland/River crossing -  Jokulgilskvist Essex Wing - Iceland/ Lava tube exploration